I think this micro receiver is a great bit of kit less than 4 grams with almost 1 kilometer range and 8 channels through PPM. The only issue I found was the instructions are not correct so here's what I discovered and how my instructions would read. Before you start turn on your transmitter and go to your bind function in menu so it's ready to be paired. 1. Hold down the bind button on receiver and then power it up. If done correctly a red light will flash very fast but keep the button pressed. 2. Start the bind process with your transmitter and release the button on the receiver. The red light will now be flashing much slower but your transmitter will say it's still binding. 3. Back out of the bind function which is still saying it's binding and remove power from the receiver. 4. Now turn on your transmitter and power up the receiver the light should now be solid and not flashing this means it has paired successfully and to test it just switch off your transmitter and the light will start to flash slowly but when you switch on your transmitter again the light will go back to being solid showing its working fine. If you wish to use PPM rather than i-bus you will need to switch the yellow wire for the white wire and use some heat shrink to cover the connector. I hope my advice saves you from the headache I had and helps you get on with this fantastic receiver. Happy flying and always fly responsibly.

I think this micro receiver is a great bit of kit less than 4 grams with almost 1 kilometer range and 8 channels through PPM. The only issue I found was the instructions are not correct so here's what I discovered and how my instructions would read. Before you start turn on your transmitter and go to your bind function in menu so it's ready to be paired. 1. Hold down the bind button on receiver and then power it up. If done correctly a red light will flash very fast but keep the button pressed. 2. Start the bind process with your transmitter and release the button on the receiver. The red light will now be flashing much slower but your transmitter will say it's still binding. 3. Back out of the bind function which is still saying it's binding and remove power from the receiver. 4. Now turn on your transmitter and power up the receiver the light should now be solid and not flashing this means it has paired successfully and to test it just switch off your transmitter and the light will start to flash slowly but when you switch on your transmitter again the light will go back to being solid showing its working fine. If you wish to use PPM rather than i-bus you will need to switch the yellow wire for the white wire and use some heat shrink to cover the connector. I hope my advice saves you from the headache I had and helps you get on with this fantastic receiver. Happy flying and always fly responsibly.

I think this micro receiver is a great bit of kit less than 4 grams with almost 1 kilometer range and 8 channels through PPM. The only issue I found was the instructions are not correct so here's what I discovered and how my instructions would read. Before you start turn on your transmitter and go to your bind function in menu so it's ready to be paired. 1. Hold down the bind button on receiver and then power it up. If done correctly a red light will flash very fast but keep the button pressed. 2. Start the bind process with your transmitter and release the button on the receiver. The red light will now be flashing much slower but your transmitter will say it's still binding. 3. Back out of the bind function which is still saying it's binding and remove power from the receiver. 4. Now turn on your transmitter and power up the receiver the light should now be solid and not flashing this means it has paired successfully and to test it just switch off your transmitter and the light will start to flash slowly but when you switch on your transmitter again the light will go back to being solid showing its working fine. If you wish to use PPM rather than i-bus you will need to switch the yellow wire for the white wire and use some heat shrink to cover the connector. I hope my advice saves you from the headache I had and helps you get on with this fantastic receiver. Happy flying and always fly responsibly.

good for brushed models and smaller quads. but there are multiple reports of brownouts and very short range when used on full size quads. 2205 motors and 20-30A escs will generate so much EMI that you can expect brownouts of about 0.5s. this can be dangerous. FlySky is aware of the problem and BG has shipped an improved V2 lately which fixes the problem for some. working on a V3. The only safe solution for now is to wrap it in aluminum foil and another heat shrink. Be aware this Rx can be dangerous and cause loss of control.

good for brushed models and smaller quads. but there are multiple reports of brownouts and very short range when used on full size quads. 2205 motors and 20-30A escs will generate so much EMI that you can expect brownouts of about 0.5s. this can be dangerous. FlySky is aware of the problem and BG has shipped an improved V2 lately which fixes the problem for some. working on a V3. The only safe solution for now is to wrap it in aluminum foil and another heat shrink. Be aware this Rx can be dangerous and cause loss of control.

good for brushed models and smaller quads. but there are multiple reports of brownouts and very short range when used on full size quads. 2205 motors and 20-30A escs will generate so much EMI that you can expect brownouts of about 0.5s. this can be dangerous. FlySky is aware of the problem and BG has shipped an improved V2 lately which fixes the problem for some. working on a V3. The only safe solution for now is to wrap it in aluminum foil and another heat shrink. Be aware this Rx can be dangerous and cause loss of control.

Ideal para drones pequeños en que ahorrar unos gramos es importante. La única pega para los que volamos en ppm es que el cable amarillo va en conector aparte mientras que el del iBus forma parte de un conector compartido con GND y Vcc. Preferiría que viniesen con los cuatro cables sueltos con conectores de un pin, o como mucho unidos solo el GND y Vcc. No obstante, se resuelve fácilemente cambiando los cables de ppm y iBus en el conector de tres cables, y de ahí a la controladora de vuelo.

Ideal para drones pequeños en que ahorrar unos gramos es importante. La única pega para los que volamos en ppm es que el cable amarillo va en conector aparte mientras que el del iBus forma parte de un conector compartido con GND y Vcc. Preferiría que viniesen con los cuatro cables sueltos con conectores de un pin, o como mucho unidos solo el GND y Vcc. No obstante, se resuelve fácilemente cambiando los cables de ppm y iBus en el conector de tres cables, y de ahí a la controladora de vuelo.

Ideal para drones pequeños en que ahorrar unos gramos es importante. La única pega para los que volamos en ppm es que el cable amarillo va en conector aparte mientras que el del iBus forma parte de un conector compartido con GND y Vcc. Preferiría que viniesen con los cuatro cables sueltos con conectores de un pin, o como mucho unidos solo el GND y Vcc. No obstante, se resuelve fácilemente cambiando los cables de ppm y iBus en el conector de tres cables, y de ahí a la controladora de vuelo.

Since it's only 1-way there is no indication on the transmitter that there is a connection. On the receiver the LED turns solid when connected and blinks when in failsafe. It was difficult to know that a successful bind occurred without knowing this. However, failsafe does work on this so you can set your channels appropriately. I flew this on a small micro at the park within 100-150m with no dropouts or failsafe.

Since it's only 1-way there is no indication on the transmitter that there is a connection. On the receiver the LED turns solid when connected and blinks when in failsafe. It was difficult to know that a successful bind occurred without knowing this. However, failsafe does work on this so you can set your channels appropriately. I flew this on a small micro at the park within 100-150m with no dropouts or failsafe.

Since it's only 1-way there is no indication on the transmitter that there is a connection. On the receiver the LED turns solid when connected and blinks when in failsafe. It was difficult to know that a successful bind occurred without knowing this. However, failsafe does work on this so you can set your channels appropriately. I flew this on a small micro at the park within 100-150m with no dropouts or failsafe.

I bought this and have no problem using SBUS: failsafe is working, no drops-out observed and range is satisfactory (about 200-300 meters). My configuration is a 4 inch quad with 2204 2300kV motors which are not introducing any noise to receiver. Easy to bind with your radio and place in your model, I see a lot of advantages!

I bought this and have no problem using SBUS: failsafe is working, no drops-out observed and range is satisfactory (about 200-300 meters). My configuration is a 4 inch quad with 2204 2300kV motors which are not introducing any noise to receiver. Easy to bind with your radio and place in your model, I see a lot of advantages!

I bought this and have no problem using SBUS: failsafe is working, no drops-out observed and range is satisfactory (about 200-300 meters). My configuration is a 4 inch quad with 2204 2300kV motors which are not introducing any noise to receiver. Easy to bind with your radio and place in your model, I see a lot of advantages!

I love these receivers. I`ve had very good success with them. They can be sensitive to electrical fields though. On one build I upgraded the flight controller and move the rx so it was strapped across my power leads (current flowing through a wire creates an electrical field), big mistake. I kept on getting drop outs and the quad became un-flyable. To fix this I just moved it away from the wires and strapped the sticker side directly to the bottom of my carbon top plate. I`ve had absolutely no issues since them. I really would have liked there to be some easy way to send an RSSI signal to the flight controller especially since Ibus has so many channels it would have been so easy to do this. There is a way to hack it to get an analog signal off the chip but you need a free analog in port on you flight controller.

I love these receivers. I`ve had very good success with them. They can be sensitive to electrical fields though. On one build I upgraded the flight controller and move the rx so it was strapped across my power leads (current flowing through a wire creates an electrical field), big mistake. I kept on getting drop outs and the quad became un-flyable. To fix this I just moved it away from the wires and strapped the sticker side directly to the bottom of my carbon top plate. I`ve had absolutely no issues since them. I really would have liked there to be some easy way to send an RSSI signal to the flight controller especially since Ibus has so many channels it would have been so easy to do this. There is a way to hack it to get an analog signal off the chip but you need a free analog in port on you flight controller.

I love these receivers. I`ve had very good success with them. They can be sensitive to electrical fields though. On one build I upgraded the flight controller and move the rx so it was strapped across my power leads (current flowing through a wire creates an electrical field), big mistake. I kept on getting drop outs and the quad became un-flyable. To fix this I just moved it away from the wires and strapped the sticker side directly to the bottom of my carbon top plate. I`ve had absolutely no issues since them. I really would have liked there to be some easy way to send an RSSI signal to the flight controller especially since Ibus has so many channels it would have been so easy to do this. There is a way to hack it to get an analog signal off the chip but you need a free analog in port on you flight controller.

This little recieve works great. It's just a little weird that when you bind it with your flysky-i6 it doesn't show up as bound. As long as the red led is constant on it's bound though. Procedure: Hold bind key and turn on flysky, power up your quad with the reciever connected while holding the bind button on the reciever, then turn off the controller. That's it! There's no confirmation except for the red light.

This little recieve works great. It's just a little weird that when you bind it with your flysky-i6 it doesn't show up as bound. As long as the red led is constant on it's bound though. Procedure: Hold bind key and turn on flysky, power up your quad with the reciever connected while holding the bind button on the reciever, then turn off the controller. That's it! There's no confirmation except for the red light.

This little recieve works great. It's just a little weird that when you bind it with your flysky-i6 it doesn't show up as bound. As long as the red led is constant on it's bound though. Procedure: Hold bind key and turn on flysky, power up your quad with the reciever connected while holding the bind button on the reciever, then turn off the controller. That's it! There's no confirmation except for the red light.

Шикарно, всё работает с CC3D и FlySky FS-i6 ВНИМАНИЕ!!!!!!!! Биндить так - сначала в аппе делаете новый профиль, вводите в режим бинда аппу, далее зажимаете кнопку на приёмнике и удерживая кнопку даёте на него питание. Далее вручную выходите из режима бинда на аппе и просто её включаете. Далее увидите как диод на приёмнике не мигает, а горит - всё, сбиндено!

Шикарно, всё работает с CC3D и FlySky FS-i6 ВНИМАНИЕ!!!!!!!! Биндить так - сначала в аппе делаете новый профиль, вводите в режим бинда аппу, далее зажимаете кнопку на приёмнике и удерживая кнопку даёте на него питание. Далее вручную выходите из режима бинда на аппе и просто её включаете. Далее увидите как диод на приёмнике не мигает, а горит - всё, сбиндено!

Шикарно, всё работает с CC3D и FlySky FS-i6 ВНИМАНИЕ!!!!!!!! Биндить так - сначала в аппе делаете новый профиль, вводите в режим бинда аппу, далее зажимаете кнопку на приёмнике и удерживая кнопку даёте на него питание. Далее вручную выходите из режима бинда на аппе и просто её включаете. Далее увидите как диод на приёмнике не мигает, а горит - всё, сбиндено!

Schöner kleiner Empfänger, optomal für Race Copter ! Passt selbst in kleinste Frames. Bietet SBUS und iBus und ist z.B. mit der Turnigy Evolution und FlySky Sendern kompatibel.

Schöner kleiner Empfänger, optomal für Race Copter ! Passt selbst in kleinste Frames. Bietet SBUS und iBus und ist z.B. mit der Turnigy Evolution und FlySky Sendern kompatibel.

Schöner kleiner Empfänger, optomal für Race Copter ! Passt selbst in kleinste Frames. Bietet SBUS und iBus und ist z.B. mit der Turnigy Evolution und FlySky Sendern kompatibel.

I switched out this receiver specifically because it had i-bus support. Swapping out my previous FS-i6A. This tiny receiver was very easy to install in my 210. I do miss being able to receive the batt status of the multi-rotor though. But for now with the i-bus support my multi-rotor fly's so much more smoother than with PWM of the FS-i6A. I used 3M's double sided gel tap and it worked great securing the receiver to the roof of the multi-rotor.

I switched out this receiver specifically because it had i-bus support. Swapping out my previous FS-i6A. This tiny receiver was very easy to install in my 210. I do miss being able to receive the batt status of the multi-rotor though. But for now with the i-bus support my multi-rotor fly's so much more smoother than with PWM of the FS-i6A. I used 3M's double sided gel tap and it worked great securing the receiver to the roof of the multi-rotor.

I switched out this receiver specifically because it had i-bus support. Swapping out my previous FS-i6A. This tiny receiver was very easy to install in my 210. I do miss being able to receive the batt status of the multi-rotor though. But for now with the i-bus support my multi-rotor fly's so much more smoother than with PWM of the FS-i6A. I used 3M's double sided gel tap and it worked great securing the receiver to the roof of the multi-rotor.